‘Every Cook Must Train At This Spot’: Modest Turkish Restaurant Ranks 4th on Ranking of London’s Leading Restaurants.
When assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of north London.
An Shocking Recognition
The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has left the owners totally shocked.
“I’m totally shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.
The Appeal of Modesty
This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.
The Signature Dish: Tantuni
However, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender quality.
The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.
It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.
Other Than the Basic Tantuni
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.
Surpassing the Titans
Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.
A Ethos of Heart
It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.
“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.
The Path of Hard Work
In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.
“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.
A Accomplishment for the Culture
This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary honour.